Trekking on Santorini
Santorini. The holiday brochures always show photographs of white 'sugar cube' buildings sitting on volcanic burgundy red outcrops. An island described as 'Steeped in history' I set out to explore.
My home for 4 nights was a 3-man dome tent (my own) at the 'Thira Campsite' 350 yards east of the town centre and away from the rim.
A trek across the Santorini rim from Thira (The Capital) to Oia its most northerly point on the Island, Is on offer.
We start the following morning in Thira and walk to Oia 5 miles to the north following the edge of the rim and taking goat paths that Kostas (Our guide) had safely walked in the past, there we'll have late lunch and take a speed boat to Thira walking back up the steps and home.
Peter, Marian, Stefanos & Georgios a Danish couple living in Holland, and two army fitness instructors looking for a hiking adventure are my companions. Then there's Kostas a Zorba moustache under his black Captains hat, tatty deck shoes and whirly beads in back pocket. The nonchalant trekking professional, so in tune with his surroundings, so out of place in an expedition. Yet our confidence grew the sense of adventure begins as we have a real local that knows the place and so keen to share his knowledge. Starting in Thira we amble threw the backstreet and emerge above the rim. A cool breeze envelops us.
Santorini's panorama is laid out before us; below cruise ships the size of match sticks float patiently, waiting to offload their passengers. White lines can be seen in deep blue showing the ferry route to 'Nea Kameni' the volcanic island in the centre of Santorini's caldera.
Our path leads us along the rim the breeze cooling us most of the time, Oia our destination is never far from view.
Imerovigli a village situated on the highest cliffs overlooking the caldera is 1 mile to the north of Thira. Walking through its quite streets we stop at 'Every Day' café neon a regular watering hole of Kostas. On entering, frapes are produce water bottles are replaces and we have time to freshen up after the heat. Imerovigli described in the brochures as a 'traditional village' is the highest village in Santorini. Talking to Kostas I learnt that its view was used to warn the arrival of pirates. A horizon can be seen in all directions, nearby islands shimmer in a blue sea. A yachts triangular white sail can be seen far in the distance traversing between the islands its progress slow but enticing.
Leaving 'Imerovigli' we continue along our path. Wild flowers are dotted here and there entwined amongst rocks, sheltering from the worst of the sun. Red poppies, blue lupines and white/yellow chrysanthemum. Heading down we switch between goat tracks that only our guide knows. Kostas lofty gait 'deceptively fast' leaves us stretched out behind. This is a goat's domain.
Oia is very near now; we are heading for a fish taverna called 'Kyma' at Ammoudi Bay, Oia's port. "The coolest place on the island" says Kosta with a grin "it's cooled by the 'Meltemi' wind that blows through the Aegean."
Kyma Taverna at Ammoudi Bay is alive with activity, fresh fish landed on the key side are sorted and displayed for purchase, children run between the restaurants tables playing tag then jump into the sea to avoid capture. The air is filled with the aroma of grilled fish, peppers and lemons. A table at the key side is selected by Kostas, feet from the sea and sheltered from the sun by a yacht sail used as an awning. Within minute's plates of sardines, red mullet and swordfish dripping in lemon juice and spices are served. Olive's, dolmades and taramasalata cover the remainder of our large table.
As time passes I see a fishermen end his day. Yellow nets sorted and cleaned lay drying on his caique. The sun, low in the sky glitters in the calm sea.
Kostas arranges our transport and we're whisked away in a modern speedboat. Traveling at full throttle we skim along a millpond at breakneck speed. The cliffs echo our passage as we race towards Thira our journey ending all to soon.
Getting there...
Flight...
Flight Scanners an airline price comparison site. They compare the major European budget airlines prices. http://www.skyscanner.net
Ferries...
Ferries from Piraeus (Athens Harbour) to Santorini cost £50 return economy class tickets bought through http://www.greekferries.gr/
Staying there...
I stayed at the 'Santorini Campsite' for 4 nights costing at £8.90 per night. But you will need your own tent. With bar and pool with good security lockers for your valuables. http://www.santorinicamping.gr/
Perissa Camping is on the southeast edge of Santorini with bar and pool also with security lockers and plenty of shady trees.
http://www.travel-to-santorini.com/camping/perissa/perissacamping/
For more comfort try in A, B or C, class hotels try...
http://www.book-santorini-hotels.com/
A night of Jazz in Prague
As the sun sets over the city of Prague its busy 'Old Town Square' changes from a grey winter day to a colourful illuminated night. David Mutlow explores this historic city and learns a little about Jazz on the way.
'Staromstsky Dixieland' a jazz-playing group of buskers (Named after the square) finishes their rendition of 'Alexander's Ragtime Band' then packs their equipment, signalling the end of their day. Seeking warmth under a restaurants outdoor canopy of gas heaters. A large halogen spotlight begins to illuminate the buildings surrounding the square.
Staromestska Radnice, Prague's old town hall is one of the squares most prominent building and the highest, its tower admits visitors until after sunset and gives one of the most eye-catching night views of Prague, well beyond the city in all directions.
Facing east the church 'Our Lady before Tyn' set slightly back from the square, its illumination displays a gold gothic church rising above an outline of black buildings. Looking down (If you have the stomach for it) you can see people far below criss crossing the square in all directions.
The Old Town Hall resides in the most crowded corner of the square. A mechanical astronomical clock (at its base) chimes. Every hour a statue 'Death' rings a bell and inverts an hourglass, 12 Apostles then parade past the windows above the clock, nodding to the crowd. The clock was donated in 1410 by master clockmaker 'Mikulas of Kadane' and is quite a crowed puller.
Busking Jazz musicians can be found everywhere in Prague's old town; Charles Bridge stretching through to the 'Old Town Square' Jazz was never far from my ears during the day. Paying a donation whilst seeking information, I'm told 'in fluent English ' there are three Jazz clubs within walking distance of the 'Old Town Square' the nearest being 'Jazz Lounge' on Michalská Street, live music starts at 9pm.
Its cold! Frosty breath is whisked away as the Siberian wind begins to test my winter clothing. With my back to the chilling breeze I walk to 'Charles Bridge' 600 yards to the west.
Its 8pm. There is a buzz in the air, sounds of life and activity are everywhere, shoppers, visitors and locals mix and mingle passing each other in the cobbled streets, tooing and frowing between the myriad of shop front windows and exhibitions (Prague is a haven for artist from Eastern Europe) Looking up, silhouettes of rooftops show themselves against the night sky. Subdued lighting from top floor apartments, drape across rooftops creating rectangular droplets of colour that stretch into the distance. The remnants of a days washing is still left on a line.
On the other side of the tramline is Charles Bridge built around 1400AD for Charles IV. A little over 300 yards long it spans the river Vltava, at numerous intervals there are statues of many Christian Saints. Saint Christopher patron saint of travelers is right in the middle. The towers at each end are dark and imposing, their foreboding presence only ads to the chill in the air. Gothic dark and moody, a perfect setting for a horror movie. The river runs quiet below the day-trip boats are moored on the far side and the bridge becomes quiet.
Time for some nightlife, heading east again back over the bridge and re-entering the old town square. I find 'Jazz Lounge' on Michalská Street 300 yards to the south, a modern jazz club that plays contemporary jazz. I pay 6 euros entrance fee and enter a basement there is a 60's feel to the décor that emulates the Jazz era. At my table, a rhythmic beat begins to wash over me. Renditions once played by 'Duke Ellington, Charlie Parker and Louis Armstrong' start to ebb and flow, the club is busy the atmosphere humming with activity. Jakub Dostal the owner who speaks perfect English admits, "The locals don't follow Jazz that much, it's more for our visitors. You will find that our club is a meeting ground for all nationalities that like live music and wish to socialize in a cosmopolitan environment"
2am quickly arrives and the club begins to close. Outside, frost on cobblestones makes glistening patterns in the dark.
There are a number of Jazz bars that are walking distance from the square.
Jazz Lounge
Michalska 9, Prague 1
+420 603 551 680
info@jazzlounge.cz
http://www.jazzlounge.cz
Open daily from 7pm to 2am
Live music from 9pm to 12pm
Admission ticket: 6 euros
Ungents Jazz & Blues Club
Tyn 2/640, Prague 1
+420 224 895 748
ungelt@jazzblues.cz
www: jazzblues.cz
Open daily from 8pm to 12pm
Live music from 9.15pm to 12pm
AghaRTA Jazz Centrum
Zelezna 16, Prague 1
Tel.: ++ 420 222 211 275
info@agharta.cz
www: agharta.cz/aghaprog.htm
Open daily from 6pm to 1am
Live music from 9pm to 12pm
Places to stay...
Hotel U Staré Paní_(4 Star)
Michalská 9_
Praha 1, Staré M_sto_
Email: hotel@ustarepani.cz_
www: ustarepani.cz/
Tel.: +420 224 226 659_ +420 224 223 301_
Hotel Best Western Meteor Plaza (4 Star)
Hybernska 6
11000 Prague 1
Tel: +420 224192559, +420 224 192 111
www: hotel-meteor.cz/en/
email: reservation@hotel-meteor.cz
Hotel Antik (3 Star)
Dlouhá 22
110 00 Praha 1
Czech Republic
tel.: +420 222 322 288
www: antikhotel.antikhotels.com
email: info@hotelantik.cz
Beeline to the Beach
EasyJet fly’s to Corfu in March 2008. David Mutlow investigates Corfu’s undiscovered west coast on a budget.
There’s a bee in my oily mousaka! It’s not moving. It just slid off onto the plate in its own pool of Olive Oil. I ought to complain, but after a week in this undiscovered backwater of Corfu I had become used to the enterprising antics on Myrtiotissa beach. With characteristic gusto Yannis solves my problem with a finger and thumb. “Its one of mine” says Yannis “I keep them up in the cliffs in hives and sell the honey” pointing to his jam jars. “They just want their honey back”
Yannis shack; of bamboo, elephant grass and driftwood is situated on Myrtiotissa beach on the west coast of Corfu. Myrtiotissa beach is not easy to find a driftwood sign nailed to an olive tree was my only clue. Walking down a dirt track meandering between the olive trees I found myself standing on a cliff overlooking a tranquil bay. Fresh water from the 200ft cliffs trickled over the rocks and down onto the beach below. Looking out to the west I could see a clear blue horizon Italy being 70 miles away. Myrtiotissa beach lacks the commercialization found on Corfu’s other beaches its isolated location means a walk of at least half an hour is needed to get down to the beach. However commerce is vibrant, its northern end is for clothed or partially clothed sun seekers but its southern end is where the backpackers, travellers and the islands gypsy minded residents reside. A hippy persona emanates everywhere. Artists selling their paintings, jewellery and friendship bands sit naked in the sand sheltering from the sun. Everyone is brown, a procession of bathers walk from the mirror sea to the fresh water shower flowing from the cliff onto the beach. Many using olive oil to enhance their tan whilst others play beach ball in their birthday suits.
As unspoilt beaches go, Myrtiotissa beach is hard to beat. Sheltered on three sides by vertical cliffs with a snake path that no vehicle can follow, its fine sandy beach gently slops into the sea. Standing at the waters edge toes disappearing into the sand I find Joanne (Yannis wife and rival to Ursula Andress in Dr No’) back from her afternoon diving adventure displaying a pile of black urchins glistening in the sun, a real pain if you stand on one and Joanna’s self-appointed mission to rid these pests from the beach. Opening one Joanna shows me the orange food inside then eats it raw passing some to me. Tasting similar to mussels I was pleasantly surprised.
Brown bodies abound I could still distinguish between Germans, Scandinavian and Brits. The Italians are a category apart; cultural backgrounds can manifest themselves even on a nudist beach. Fashion conscious Italians, beer swilling Scandinavians, territorial Germans and lobster coloured Brits can be distinguished with ease. Yet the difference between the residents and hardcore travellers was harder to judge. ‘The best time to get to know who’s who is in the evening” says Joanna. “As quite a few sleep on the beach overnight.”
As the sun gets low in the sky the day visitors begin to leave, a precession of coloured garments snake there way slowly up the winding path and disappear from view. “Quality time” as Joanna described it, starts about now.
Ambling along the waters edge, wearing a sarong in ‘Beckham style’ I stumble into the travellers’ encampment hidden from view of the main beach. Attracted by the aroma of grilled fish, life here looked primitive, yet I could see there were plenty that had chosen to camp on the beach for weeks. Familiar faces sitting in the shade only hours before were grouped around a campfire. Rhythms of ‘Cat Stevens’ strummed on a guitar mingle with the evening heat. Sleeping bags arranged in groups, logs arranged around the campfire all were changed and ready for the evening to come. At such a perfect moment it seemed a shame to leave.
Getting there from Corfu Town & airport.
Myrtiotissa beach is 15km west of Corfu town. Take the Glyfada (Via Vatos) green/cream bus (45mins) from the New Port central bus station in Corfu Town and ask for Myrtiotissa beach bus stop (40 mins), you will be dropped of by the side of a road next to an Olive grove with a dirt track. Follow the signs to the beach (The last bus back to Corfu town is 20:30). If you take a car make sure you park in the parking place half way down the dirt track in the olive grove. Beyond the parking area the dirt road becomes really steep a 1in3 incline. Taxis direct from the airport can cost up to 40 euros so ask the price first and then haggle. The Green Bus station from the airport is 4 km so a local bus to the bus station is needed.
Sleeping on the beach…
In Greece, it’s illegal to camp on a beach as there is no revenue earned through its tourism, at Myrtiotissa those that chose to sleep overnight on the beach take their tents down during the day and only put them back up in the dark, others just have their sleeping bags and netting. Myrtiotissa’s isolated location makes the policing of unofficial campers, difficult. As long as no tents are seen it’s possible to become one with the beach and the sea without paying for any accommodation.
Accommodation…
Panorama rooms. Are located in an olive grove at the top of the cliff, overlooking the sea and a 5-minute walk from Myrtiotissa beach. The accommodation is private but you share the communal showers and kitchen. On the main road 300 yards north/south of the bus stop are a lot of apartments to rent. Villa Myrto, Villa Natassa and Villa Capella are only just a few of them. They offer average to high standards.
http://www.panorama-rooms.gr
panoramarooms@yahoo.gr
Vatos Camping is a 30 min walk from the beach and on the outskirts of Vatos village. (The same Corfu-Glyfada bus takes you there) They provide free regular coach transport to Glyfada beach stopping at Myrtiotissa from their campsite.
Tel 0030 26610 94503
Eating out & nightlife…
Mythos bar, Labis bar, Spiros 97 are all within a 30 min walk from the beach and are located in and around Vatos village. There is a local disco ‘Pam Pam’ (Operated by Vatos camping) that opens from July.
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